Clean your wheels and tires before the rest of the car, while they’re cool, one wheel at a time. Spray on a cleaner that’s safe for your wheel finish, scrub with soft brushes, rinse, and dry.
Doing them first keeps brake dust and road grime from splattering onto paint you just washed. Wheels carry the heaviest dirt on the car, which is also why they get their own tools.
Time and difficulty
Time: It depends on how dirty the wheels are and how intricate they are. Wheels with lots of thin spokes take the longest.
Difficulty: Easy, as long as you know your wheel finish.
Start by matching the cleaner to the wheel
This is the one decision that can go badly wrong. Strong cleaners can stain or etch delicate finishes.
| Wheel finish | What to use | What to avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Painted or powder-coated | A non-acid wheel cleaner | Regular use of strong acid products |
| Raw or polished aluminum | A mild, non-acid cleaner made for that finish, tested in a hidden spot first | Acid cleaners |
| Anodized or uncoated | A mild, non-acid cleaner, tested in a hidden spot first | Acid cleaners |
| Not sure | Treat it as delicate and use a non-acid cleaner | Anything acid based |
For routine cleaning, a non-acid cleaner is the safe default on any finish. Acid cleaners are riskier, and there’s rarely a reason to use one at home. Some cities agree: Laguna Hills, California tells residents not to use acid-based wheel cleaners at home because of what ends up in the storm drain. Rules vary, so check with your city or county.
Chemical safety: Read the label before you spray. Wear gloves when it says to, work outdoors or with plenty of airflow, and never mix wheel cleaner with other products, especially bleach or ammonia.
What you need
- Wheel cleaner suited to your finish
- A tire cleaner, or an all-purpose cleaner diluted as the label directs
- A soft-bristled wheel brush for the wheel face
- A long, narrow brush for the barrel and spokes
- A small detail brush for lug nut recesses
- A stiffer brush for the tire sidewall
- A dedicated bucket of soapy water
- Microfiber towels you only use on wheels
- Tire dressing, if you like the look
The detailing tools page covers brushes, and the sprays and cleaners page walks through wheel cleaner types.
How to clean your wheels and tires
Step 1: Let everything cool
Wait until the wheels are cool to the touch. Cleaner sprayed on hot wheels or brakes can dry too fast, leaving streaks or stains. If you just drove, wash the wheels last that day or give them time.
Step 2: Rinse the first wheel
Work one wheel at a time so products don’t dry while you’re busy elsewhere. Rinse off loose dirt and brake dust with a hose or pressure washer. The pressure washer guide has the right tip and distance if you use one.
Step 3: Spray the wheel cleaner
Cover the face, spokes, and as much of the barrel as you can reach. Follow the dwell time on the label. Don’t let it dry.
Step 4: Scrub the wheel
Cleaner alone rarely gets a wheel fully clean, so expect to do some brushing.
Start with the barrel, since that’s the dirtiest part, and then work outward to the spokes and face. Use the small brush around lug nuts and the valve stem. Dip your brushes in soapy water to keep them slippery.
Step 5: Scrub the tire
Spray tire cleaner on the sidewall and scrub with the stiffer brush. Old dressing and road film will come off as brown foam. Repeat until the foam stays mostly white, then move on.
Step 6: Rinse, then repeat
Rinse the wheel and tire thoroughly, including inside the barrel. Rinse your brushes before you start the next wheel so you don’t drag dirt around with you.
Step 7: Dry the wheel
Once you’ve finished washing the car, dry each wheel with its own towel. This prevents water spots, which matters most on polished or uncoated wheels.
Step 8: Dress the tires (optional)
Apply dressing with an applicator, not by spraying near the wheel. Keep it on the sidewall only. Dressing on the tread or brake parts is a bad idea, and any excess can sling onto your paint.
While you’re down there, take a look at the tread. The tire pressure and tread guide shows you what to check.
A note on heavy buildup
If your wheels still look dirty or speckled after all this, you’re probably looking at bonded iron particles from your brakes. That needs a different approach, so see how to remove brake dust.
You don’t need to take a wheel off for routine cleaning. If you do remove one to reach the inner barrel, use proper jack stands on level ground and follow your owner’s manual. Never get under a car held only by a jack.
Common mistakes
Cleaning hot wheels. It’s the fastest route to streaks and stains, and it’s harder on the finish. Wait for them to cool.
Using an acid cleaner on the wrong finish. Raw, polished, anodized, and uncoated wheels can be damaged. If you can’t identify your finish, assume it’s delicate.
Sharing tools with the paint. Brake dust contains metal particles that can scratch. Your wheel brushes, mitts, and towels should never touch the body of the car.
Doing all four wheels at once. The cleaner will dry on the last one before you get to it. Finish one wheel, then start the next.
Only cleaning the face. The barrel holds a lot of brake dust. Leave it dirty and the wheel never looks quite right.
Over-applying tire dressing. Too much slings onto the paint as you drive. A thin, even coat is enough.
When to hire a pro
Most wheels are a simple home job. Get help if your wheels are polished, chrome, or aftermarket and you can’t tell what the finish is, or if you’ve found pitting, peeling clear coat, or stains that won’t come out. A detailer can identify the finish and choose a safe product. Curb damage and corrosion are a job for a wheel repair shop.
If you’d rather skip the brushes altogether, you can book a detailer through the directory.