How to Get Mold Out of a Car Safely

You can usually clean a small patch of car mold yourself: stop the moisture, wear an N-95, gloves, and goggles, work with the doors open, scrub with detergent or a fabric-safe cleaner, and dry the car completely. Heavy growth, flood damage, or mold in the vents is a job for a professional.

The EPA and CDC guidance below was written for homes, not cars, but the same principles apply. A car cabin is small and enclosed, so lean toward caution.

First, decide if this is a DIY job

Don’t start cleaning if any of these apply. Call a professional instead.

• The growth is heavy or widespread. The EPA’s rule of thumb for homes is that about 10 square feet or less is usually a DIY job. That’s a lot of area in a car, so treat more than a small patch or two as heavy growth.
• It’s inside the vents or A/C system. The EPA suggests a professional for contaminated HVAC systems, and you can’t reach those surfaces anyway.
• The padding or seat foam is soaked. Mold can be hard or impossible to fully remove from porous materials, and surface cleaning won’t reach it.
• The car was flooded. Contact your insurance company first, and don’t start the car until a qualified mechanic has inspected it. Contaminated water calls for a professional.
• You’re at higher risk. The CDC says people with asthma, COPD, or a weakened immune system should stay away from moldy spaces. If you have a mold allergy or other health concern, talk to a health professional first. Children shouldn’t help.

Protect yourself

Get this gear before you open the doors for a cleanup session:

• An N-95 respirator that’s NIOSH-approved and fits properly
• Gloves, preferably long ones
• Goggles without ventilation holes
• Old clothes you can wash straight away

Ventilation matters as much as the mask. Move the car outdoors, open every door, and leave them open the whole time. Never do this in a closed garage.

If you have trouble breathing at any point, stop working and contact a doctor.

How to clean it

1. Find the water

Mold needs moisture, so if you skip this step, it will come back. Press your hand into the carpet under the mats and check the trunk. Common sources include:

• Clogged sunroof or A/C drains
• Damaged door or window seals
• Spills, and windows left open in the rain

Some leaks need a shop to track down and fix. Get that done first.

2. Clear the car

Take out mats, trash, and belongings. Bag and discard anything moldy that can’t be fully cleaned and dried. Take the bags straight outside.

3. Pull out standing moisture

If the carpet is wet, use a wet/dry vacuum while it’s still wet. The EPA cautions that using one on dry material can spread spores. Clean and dry the tank and hose afterward.

4. Scrub hard surfaces

Use detergent and water on plastic, vinyl, and other hard surfaces, then dry them right away. That’s what the EPA recommends for hard surfaces. You don’t need anything stronger.

5. Clean fabric and carpet

Use a carpet or upholstery cleaner made for cars, and follow the label. The steps are in how to clean car carpet. For leather, follow how to clean leather car seats instead, since soaking can damage it.

Use as little liquid as you can on seats. They can hold airbag and seatbelt sensors, and soaked foam stays damp for a long time.

6. Dry everything completely

This step decides whether the job sticks. Aim to get everything dry within 24 to 48 hours. Run fans, leave the windows down somewhere safe and dry, or, once the cleaning is done, park in a garage with a dehumidifier running. Don’t reinstall the mats until they’re fully dry.

7. Finish with a HEPA vacuum

Once everything is dry, vacuum with a HEPA-filtered vacuum to pick up remaining dust. Keep your gear on, and bag the debris when you empty it.

Then replace the cabin air filter, since a dirty filter can keep a musty smell going. Check the car again after a few days. If the smell or growth returns, there’s still moisture in there somewhere.

If the carpet has to come out

Moldy padding usually needs replacing, and that can mean removing the seats.

Airbag warning: Seats can hold airbag and seatbelt sensors. Disconnect the battery, wait the time your owner’s manual gives, and never probe yellow connectors. Some cars should be left to a shop. Read how to remove car seats before you touch a bolt.

What to skip

Don’t reach for bleach. The EPA doesn’t recommend it for routine mold cleanup, the CDC says to ventilate the area if you do use it, and a car cabin is a small, enclosed space. It can also damage the color of your interior.

Never mix cleaners. Bleach combined with ammonia or other cleaning products can release toxic fumes, which is especially dangerous in a small cabin. Use one product at a time.

Be cautious with vinegar. Some car guides recommend plain white vinegar. If you try it, test a hidden spot and use it on its own, never with bleach or another cleaner.

Don’t use an ozone generator. The EPA says ozone doesn’t effectively clear microbes at levels within public health standards, and it may not reach mold embedded in porous material. Ozone also damages lungs. No federal agency has approved these devices for occupied spaces, so never run one with people or pets in the car.

Skip test kits. The CDC doesn’t recommend mold testing, because there are no set standards for acceptable levels. Clean it and fix the moisture.

Don’t just cover the smell. Air fresheners leave the mold in place.

Keep it from coming back

• Dry spills and wet mats within a day or two
• Clear blocked drains and repair leaks promptly
• Air out the car on dry days, especially if it sits unused
• Turn off the A/C a few minutes before you park and let the fan run

Lingering odor after cleaning? See how to get rid of car smells.

If this is more than a small patch, find a pro through the directory, and ask directly whether they have mold cleanup experience, since not every detailer does.